June 30, 2010

Sao Vicente holds the internationally known Baia music festival, the uninhabited Santo Luzia has…well nothing aside from maybe a few octopi and eel, Sao Nicolou is home to Cape Verde’s most traditional carnival celebration, Sal has the plethora of filet mignon and real hamburgers which we all sorely miss, and Boa Vista boasts the most beautiful and immaculate beaches in the country. That leaves one island in the Barlavento, Santo Antao. What is our claim to fame aside from our queijo de terra and grogue? The festival Sao Jao.

The festivities officially began Tuesday night on June 22. Joining my next door neighbors, I served as their doll as they played “dress up” with me. Within 15 minutes I was transformed from an American wearing hoop earrings, a JMU tshirt, and yoga pants, into a real Cape Verdean. Courtesy of the grandma living next door, I was now adorned in her lensu, long black pleated skirt, and white button up blouse complete with shoulder pads. We joined the rest of Ribeira das Patas which were quickly flowing into hiaces to head down to Porto Novo for the Chola de Sao Joao competition.

After a quick pep talk to fill us with the exuberance and energy which would be needed to win this competition, we grabbed our sugar cane and banana trees and began our march into the town square. Among shouts and applause from the crowds lining the streets, we processed into the town square where we gave our hearts into dancing, singing, shouting, and propelling our banana trees into the air. It was at this moment I had my first lesson in Choladera, that strange pelvis bumping dance we were introduced to during PST. As I danced around with my sugar cane men, women, and children began to prance up to me thrusting their pelvises into mine in time with the music. After a moment’s awkwardness and slight apprehension, hesitancy disappeared and I began thrusting right back.


The 10 whole minutes we spent in that town square will always be one of my favorite memories in Cape Verde. Yes we were dancing and singing, an almost daily activity here, yet this moment stood apart from others because we were united as one. We put our hearts and souls into performing because we were representing Ribeira das Patas, past and present. As we wore the clothes, carried the pilaos, and danced the choladera, I am certain putting on a winning performance was on the minds of many, but for more, the performance was a tribute to ancestors and Cape Verdean culture. I am so grateful that they allowed me to share in this special tradition.

Although we did not win the competition that night, our enthusiasm and vigor failed to diminish. The next morning we woke up at 6 am refreshed and ready. We joined together again as one, as we accompanied the statue of Saint John the Baptist, 20 km on foot to the small chapel in Porto Novo.